Mussels

Although the mussel has played a noteworthy role in gastronomy for thousands of
years. Americans rank as late appreciators of this delectable shellfish. Historical indifference
in this country—few early cookbooks even acknowledge its existence—relegated the
mussel to wallflower status while its cousin was endlessly feted at elaborate clambakes.
Over the years, however, as the country has become home to people from every corner of
the globe, the esteem in which this mollusk is held internationally has spread to the
western side of the Atlantic. Traditional recipes have been assimilated and adapted and
have served as inspiration for new preparations, creating a rich potpourri represented in
part by the recipes that follow. The sweet, delicate flavor of the mussel can be highlighted
by such simple treatments as steaming in wine, or the mollusk can be combined with a
variety of ingredients to produce a dish of great complexity as well as elegance.
Whereas mussels are cultivated in Europe to supply a multitude of devotees. American
shores harbor a natural, and still relatively neglected. abundance. The prolific blue-black
bivalve is easy to harvest along the littoral at low tide as it clings to piers or surf-washed
rocks. Called “poor man’s oyster,” the mussel supplies a wealth of flavor and versatility at
nominal outlay, and the investment of effort in cleaning and preparation is amply repaid in
savor.

To Clean Mussels
Scrub the mussels well in several changes of water, scrape off the beards, and rinse the
mussels. Soak the mussels in just enough cold water to cover for several hours or overnight
to disgorge any sand. Or soak the mussels in cold water sprinkled with a handful of
cornmeal for 1 hour. Drain the mussels and rinse them under running cold water.

To Steam Mussels
Arrange the mussels in one layer in a baking pan and put the pan in a preheated very
hot oven (450° F.) for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the shells have opened. Discard any unopened
shells.